The last of our four blogs on Buying Local and Farmers’ Markets is on what is possibly the most important topic of them all. How we currently procure food and the factors involved effect the lives of millions of people. The rise of chain supermarkets and the disappearance of independent grocers have created problems both in America and around the globe. This issue is so complicated that I can not begin to unravel it all here. Let us focus mostly on the issue of “food deserts” in America.
“Food Desert” is a term to describe those areas of inner cities where cheap nutritious food is virtually unobtainable. It is difficult for residents without cars to commute to the supermarkets located in the suburbs or some other area of the city. Residents living in “food deserts” depend mostly on corner stores and fast food restaurants for daily food. Both are places where prices are high, products are processed, and fresh fruits and vegetables are poor or non-existent. “Food Desert” can also refer to a rural area where residents have to travel very far to reach a supermarket.
Why did food deserts arise?
Food deserts came about through the pushing out of the smaller “mom and pop” grocers that used to speckle the landscape, both rural and urban. Grocery conglomerates learned that they could make the most profit by building huge stores in the suburbs. These corporations can purchase products in much larger quantities than independent stores, and therefore can offer cheaper prices. The people living in the suburbs also have a higher average income than in the areas where the grocery stores are absent, there are less zoning laws, and the crime rate tends to be lower crime: all positive factors for the placement of new stores.
The neighbourhoods “left behind” have been deeply affected. The people living in these areas make eating decisions based on what is available (as most people do), but what is available for them is, in general, less nutritious. And their health suffers.
A major study conducted in Chicago on “food deserts” and health showed that people living in those areas have more chronic illnesses and lower quality diets than people closer to supermarkets. Grocery store distance was also a significant factor for obesity. They found the farther the nearest grocery store, the higher the obesity rate.
Perhaps the saddest part of this situation is that people living in these areas can become accustomed to their limited and unhealthy food choices. Soda, candy bars, chips are seen as a common and normal part of the diet. This is why farmers’ markets can have an even deeper impact on health than one might expect. The sight of fresh fruits and vegetables straight from the farm, and the interaction with people who grew them, might offer a reconnection to nature and to where food actually comes from.
Community gardens in urban environments are another tool for people who have been isolated from the basic growth and nourishment of food to understand what is involved in food production. Take part in a community garden or just start growing a few vegetables of your own. Eating produce we have grown ourselves, or have a connection to where it was grown, is a deeply satisfying experience.
For more information on a wonderful program that connects urban youth with farming, and supports and participates in farmers’ markets, check out the Food Project’s website:
http://www.thefoodproject.org/
Until major changes occur in the structure of our society, let’s all do what we can to educate ourselves on the importance of access to fresh, affordable, nutritious food. And let’s all find our way to farmers’ markets this summer!
By Rebecca Brotzman